23 Responses to “pool solar heater -Solar Pool Heater (DIY)”
Yes after looking at your system once more, simply rotating your boxes 90
degrees counter clockwise, buying some “Tee’s” and installing a poly header
line at the top and bot would be great, as well MAKE sure the cold water in
goes’ to the header at ground level and the hot header is at the top. As
has been stated you will get much more HOTTER water doing this as the flow
rate through the coils is GREATLY reduced, increasing dwell time to collect
more BTU’s, you are (as has been stated) getting zero return from at least
your last 1 or 2 coils, AND go online and Google “Solar Collector Latitude”
there you will see dozens of sites that will tell you the correct angle to
the sun, by you simply imputing your city, but remember as it will tell
you, you “Maximize the solar production for the time of year (Season) you
want it, this is then the angle you use, to much heat, lay them flatter,
not enough more angle to the sun, based on the chart from the web for your
area, with your system, it would be easy to use concrete blocks to change
angle by season, or use posts and a hanger of sorts. Good Luck !
Electrical power in your pool? bad idea…very dangerous. I have seen
several of these pumps used in water systems where, with time, they start
leaking electricity into to cistern. Use a out of water pump with just the
hose being in the water.
I see some issues here, 1) angle to the sun, unless you are at the Tropic
of Cancer, it’s wrong, 2) the header system as has been suggested 3) the
“Gloss Grey” paint, should be flat black 4) the poly pipe is glossy in the
sun, should be sanded with it wrapped with emery cloth, to de-gloss OR wipe
with acetone on a rag 5) you need a “Low Iron” glass cover, this allows the
radiation in, but little out. This glass you can not see through like
window glass, plexi as you propose will reflect the light back, and
scratches easily, then NOT allowing light through 6) a VERY low cost 12V
PV Circ Pump plus a 20 watt 12 Volt PV Panel Both together @$100 bucks
would give you the same flow rate and be zero utility cost ! 7) make SURE
the pump you have now in the pool is on a high quality GFCI Recep, at least
10 feet from the pool edge the hot return line should be 180 degrees
opposite the pump out AT THE FLOOR OF THE POOL, these corrections will
greatly increase your output of hot solar water.
Great looking solar panels. However you could make them more efficient by
plumbing them in parallel instead of in series the way they are. Have one
header pipe from the pump feeding all four panels and then they merge back
into a header pipe to go back to the pool. That way the water would go
slower through the panels and pickup more heat. That also allows you to
push more water through the system and raise the pool water temp faster.
The most efficient system pushes the most water you can while only raising
it a few degrees. believe it or not.
Nice job and I have a couple questions and suggestions…How long does it
take to raise your pool temp – say 10 degrees? I’d be curious to see if
your performance increased by covering the collectors with clear glass or
looks awesome. just a suggestion… switch your feeder and return. The
heated water should have the shortest distance to the pool. I think you
are loosing temp as it travel along the ground back to you pool.
Nice job. But your collectors will work more efficient if they are not
plumbed in series. You are heating more heated water by the time the water
reaches the end. That’s if you seeing any heat gain at the end of the 3rd
or 4th collector at all.
Again nice job.
If you send too much flow you add pressure unnecessarily. Its not possible
to send too little flow. Its true you want high flow for efficient
operation but what is high flow? High flow for solar is low flow for the
average pool with an oversized pool pump. Just feel the collectors to make
sure there are no hot spots. That’s efficient. Sens so much flow you add
load to the pool pump and you just add load and electricity cost and you
pressurize the solar panels.
First – Why the secondary bypass at the bottom? Isn’t the “solar on Solar
off” valve at the top a bypass valve? Why wouldn’t you just turn this to
solar off and proceed with your winterizing? Second: Assuming the need for
the lower bypass valve based on my first question. I think the narrator
said “leave the bypass valve open as much as you can”. Isn’t the idea to
run as much water through the solar panel as possible? If you bypass too
much then don’t you lose efficiency? Thanks